Best Martini in the South Sound - September 20, 2004

Downtown
Dry, dirty, shaken, stirred, vodka or gin? I’ve been on a quest for the ideal martini for about three years now. I have tried them in dives, classy joints, jazz bars, smoky lounges, casinos, clubs and kitchens. Los Angeles, Las Vegas, New York, San Francisco, Seattle, I even tried one in a Mexican restaurant in Yelm. That’s right. And believe it or not, the best I’ve had is right here in Tacoma.
There’s a slice of a lounge at the top of the Sheraton, in Tacoma, that serves up one of the best martini’s I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy. Vertigo is the name and Larry, the bartender serves up an ice cold, glistening glass of the smoothest martini to date. There are a couple of close seconds in the downtown area. David at El Gaucho mixes a martini that is like silk and 21 Commerce serves up an excellent Thai Basil Gimlet (although the classic martini is never quite right). I’ve been disappointed time and time again with the posh new Blue Olive’s martini. While the atmosphere is gorgeous (dig the ice bar) and the servers oh-so polite, the classic martini is always a little warm, and needs just a whisper of vermouth.
I also have to give props to Alfred’s Café where bartender, Dane, serves up a great martini and witty repertoire to boot. I would certainly be remiss if I failed to mention the Hob Nob. Nicknamed the Roofatini (as in do they put roofies in this thing?) the martini at the Nob always has me going to fetch my car in the morning. No kidding.

Lakewood
Anyone out there thinking of opening up a martini bar? Lakewood is the place to do it! This city is in serious need of some swank. I did however discover a dynamite little lounge at Goodfella’s Steakhouse in the Grand Central Casino just off south Tacoma way. I may have been the only person there but felt pretty comfortable sitting in a high backed corner booth, listening to Frank and feeling like the ultra-hip lounge lizard. I would take this place over the new martini bars any day. Too bad they close at 11pm.
The second best martini in Lakewood has to go to Maggie O’Tooles. I know, I was shocked too. I almost turned around at the door as I couldn’t quite envision sipping on a martini to AC/DC. Matt, the bartender, served a frosty good drink and I was awed.
I moved on to Bourbon Street, just to make sure I had a good sampling and what I found there was a kindly bartender and a crowd of people that made me feel as if I’d stepped into an episode of Twilight Zone. Or that commercial against smoking where the kids are surrounded by ghouls on a bus they can’t get off. I ordered my martini, took a couple of sips, and made a break for it. The $3 martini was warmish and served in a champagne glass. ‘Nuff said.

North End (including Ruston Way)
My first martini ever was at Luciano’s, and something about it must have stuck because I’ve been going back ever since. To martini’s and to Lucianos. Tawny makes a damn fine martini, cold, light, and the olives are always perfect. The atmosphere is first-rate and the appetizers are the best. I do love this place. They also have a drink menu that features specialty martini’s such as the Sinatra; made with Ketel One vodka, Grand Marnier and a slice of orange, and the Sophia; made with VOX vodka, amaretto and a cherry. I’ll take these twists on the martini over the sugary flavored twists offered down the road at the Ram anytime. Definitely my favorite martini spot in the North End.
Believe it or not, my second favorite has got to be Knapp’s. There’s just something about this lounge that makes me feel like I’m on the lam, and I think that adds to the ambiance. The martinis are cold and strong, the lights are low and the booths are soooo cozy.
Just to be fair, I did stop in at all hard liquor spots along the waterfront, Shenanigans, The Lobster Shop, Harbor Lights and the Ram. I didn’t encounter a bad martini or experience anywhere. Well, with the exception of the Lobster Shop, whose signature martini is a thing of beauty but time, and time again, the service is poor and the attitude haughty.

University Place
Tracking down martinis in University Place was a daunting task. I drove around hoping to stumble upon some unknown, hidden hot spot, some dark little lounge known only to a select few. There had to be some magical gem in this town. No such luck. What I did find, however, was a wicked good martini at the Keg. The service was impeccable and the presentation quite impressive. Shaken tableside my martini was ice-cold, complete with plump fresh olives and zero bitterness. The atmosphere in the lounge is dark and cozy, and the drink menu features "Elemental" martinis such as Earth, Wind and Sky, made with flavored vodkas. Flavored martinis are not my thing, but these were a big hit with my friends. I’ll definitely be back.
We ventured on to the Jade Palace in the Green Firs strip mall. I had been told that they actually made a really good martini. Well, the friend who gave me that tidbit is going to hear it next time I see her. My ultra vermouthy martini was served in a straight-out-of-the-dishwasher lukewarm champagne glass and olives were stale. Cheap? Yes. Strong? Yes. Will I be back? For dinner perhaps, but for drinks…no. Asking for a martini in this strip mall karaoke joint just felt wrong. I must say, however, that the bartender was as friendly as could be and the $5.50 appetizer special rocked.
So, we moved on down the block to University Place landmark Captain Nemos. Wow, this place hasn’t changed since 1979. The place was empty but had a cool sunken bar. The combination of the brass and bad upholstery was made even more depressing by the hideous song selection on the jukebox. But onto the martini….it came in a champagne glass again, but was really pretty good. And at $4 for a top shelf vodka martini, I’m not complaining. If you don’t mind feeling you’ve been transported back in time check out this place. I kept expecting to see Ponch and John walk through the door but once you accept the kitsch, it’s actually alright.